A September Road Trip Through Scotland

teaganfroneman
Jun 8
14 min read

Since wrapping up a trip through Ireland back in 2013, I’ve always regretted not making time for Scotland. I was 20, travelling solo, and—realistically—couldn’t afford the extra leg. But regrets aren’t always rational, are they? I was right there! Fast forward to 2024, and my husband and I took 2 months off for a long-awaited dream trip through our top places. Scotland took half a second to steal it's place, and made it to the very first stop of our trip.

If you, like me, feel called to the mountains, believe in folklore, and happily indulge the idea that magic might just be real, then let me introduce you to the perfect place for your next adventure.

Although I have no doubt it would be all year round for various reasons, there really is something quietly magical about Scotland in September. The crowds have thinned, the hills wear their first shades of rust and gold, and the roads - twisting through misty glens and past lochs with names that deserve their own phonetic guide - invite you into stories older than time.

This is the story of our week-long road trip across Scotland: a journey that began in the gritty, culture-rich streets of Glasgow and ended among the cobbled crescents of Edinburgh.

Along the way? Highland cows, haunted restaurants, too many yet still not enough castles, pebble beaches, the Hogwarts Express and dog-friendly everything.

Starting Strong in Glasgow

We landed in Glasgow under typical Scottish conditions - welcomed with grey skies, sideways rain, and a strange sense that our GPS was already judging us.

Jet-lagged but motivated by the one-night-only, we dropped our car and belongings at the airbnb and headed to George Square.

There’s a boldness to Glasgow’s architecture - ornate, industrial, a little gritty around the edges, and full of character. We ducked into "The Counting House"pub to escape the rain, and not long after that I was asleep on my hands over my dinner plate in the TGIF.

Although we didn't get to see or learn a huge amount in Glasgow, the Scottish warmth (and accents) alone could qualify as a tourist attraction.

Stayed: Airbnb - South Glasgow. Price: AUD185 (Accommodation was nothing to rave about)

Would we again? Maybe too short to judge - but probably not. Glasgow is not a huge place for touristing, and once you're out of the city it really is just suburban life. Going again - I would be considering somewhere walking distance to George Square, with allocated parking if you have a car.

Car Hire: Arnold Clark - 10/10, they were affordable and fantastic. We had a Skoda SUV and it was perfect for a travelling couple with 2 large bags and carry on bags.

https://www.arnoldclarkrental.com/

Defs do's: Drinks, dinner and live music at the Glasgow Waxy O'Connors. Unassuming from the exterior, you will be transported to somewhere between the Far Away tree and middle earth on entry. Tables are booked on a walk-in basis, so definitely get there earlier than an expected meal or drinks time.

https://waxyoconnorsglasgow.co.uk/

To be mindful: Welcome to the UK - Parking is a guaranteed nightmare! It was easier for us to Uber into and around the city. It's definitely worth extra dollars and points, for accommodations that offer you parking.

Into the Highlands, en-route Fort William

Our very first priority of the day was getting a Pumpkin Spice latte in hand. After greeting Starbucks like an old friend, we started the 2.5 hour journey north to Fort William via:

Loch Lomond

We arrived mid-morning and wandered through the Balloch Castle Country Park without an agenda - just two humans, admiring the many dogs, with a growing appreciation for Scotland’s way of making every patch of grass feel like a photoshopped colour swatch.

We hadn't done any research into Balloch Castle - but like many of the best parts of this trip, it was one of those unexpected detours that turned into a favourite memory.

Perched on the southern tip of Loch Lomond, the castle sits quietly above the water, surrounded by woodlands and walking trails that seem to hum with peace. It isn’t the kind of grand, crumbling ruin you see in films - this one is intact, regal but approachable, with soft golden stone and a modest silhouette. The castle itself isn’t open to the public inside, but it hardly mattered. The beauty was in the outside looking in.

It feels like the kind of place that was built more for daydreams than battles.

Continuing our stroll along the trails, the views of and over Loch Lomond force pause. Still waters, mountain shadows, and the occasional boat drifting by like a slow-moving thought.

We sat on a bench overlooking the loch, sharing "Good Mornings" with locals and tourists as they all passed us with smiles. The only thing happier than the people, were their dogs.

We could have stayed all day.

Hindsight tip: You can stay all day! The grounds of Loch Lomond and Balloch Castle are expansive and there are many winding trails to adventure through. Whether you give into the beckoning of a barefoot grass-angel on the lawn, or choose to soak in the Loch views - pack a picnic and let the Loch set the pace, a few hours pass so quickly!

Drovers Inn

Embracing our first introduction to the Scottish roads that curl like ribbons around lochs and through hills - we took turns reminding each other to breathe or brake.

Choosing to stop for haggis and a haunt... we pulled in to the Drovers Inn. This character-filled pub has been welcoming travellers since 1705, and it feels like stepping into a storybook. Taxidermy-lined walls, candlelit corners, and the kind of history you can feel in the floorboards. Call it soulful or soul-filled depending on your superstitions - but the staff were warm, the Guinness pie hit the spot, and if there ARE ghosts? Well, they're polite enough keep to themselves.

If you're headed through Loch Lomond, The Drovers Inn is so much more than a pit stop - it’s an entire experience.

Kilchurn Castle

If you could paint with your imagination what you expected Scottish castle ruins to look like - It would be Kilchurn castle; a crumbling, romantic relic perched on the edge of Loch Awe.

There’s a short walk from the roadside to the castle, cutting under stone bridges and through open fields, the castle pulls you into its quiet, cinematic spell. With the moody clouds overhead and barely another soul in sight, it felt like we’d wandered into the opening scene of a historical drama.

Admiring the roofless ruins from every angle, its stone walls still hold the weight of centuries and their stories. In awe, we paused. No tours, no tickets, no crowds - just us, the mist, and the whispers of Scottish history and secrets.

Hindsight tip: Pack your boots! The ground is soft and the grass is long. If you're chasing or enduring the rain (and are as nosy as we are) - you will have to do some front-row moshing to circulate the castle to admire every angle.

Fort William

By the time we rolled into Fort William, the sky was blushing with that soft, late-evening light that makes the Highlands look (and feel) even more surreal. After a full day of winding roads, castle detours, and spontaneous photo stops, the town felt like a welcome exhale.

Tucked between mountains and lochs, Fort William has a quiet energy - like it knows it’s the gateway to big adventures but isn’t in any rush. We checked into our Airbnb stay, stretched our legs, and then turned straight back into town in search of food, fresh air, and a pint or two while we mapped out our next few days.

Fort William offers culture, history, adventure and/or tranquility - it really is your pick of an experience. In hindsight we wished we had more time to explore it.

Unforgettable highlights included:

The Hogwarts Express/Jacobyte train chugging over the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct. When the train conductor stopped the train to sound the whistle - goosebumps. Whether you’re a Potterhead, train enthusiast or just someone who appreciates a good view, just to observe this was pure magic on rails. Allow yourself time to grab a coffee and find a carpark!
Cable car up Aonach Mòr - a peak that delivered views dramatic enough to pause all small talk. Even better? Dogs are welcome on the ride.
Best meal: Dinner at Crannog - the service was warm, the ambience just right, and the local food - so fresh! A must do if you love seafood.
Ben Nevis Distillery. You can’t visit Fort William without paying homage to Ben Nevis - both the mountain and the whisky. The distillery tour was equal parts history lesson and tasting session, offering a behind-the-scenes look at how Scotland’s most sacred spirit is crafted.
West Highland Museum. It may be small in size, but it is rich in history. The West Highland Museum really surprised us. From Bonnie Prince Charlie’s relics to local folklore and wartime memorabilia, it gave us a deeper understanding of the region we were exploring. Bonus: it’s right in the heart of town and free to enter - perfect for a quiet hour between adventures!

Stayed: Airbnb - "The Bears Den" in Lochyside. In a car - 5 mins from Fort William main street. Price: AUD215p/n - 10/10 would stay again.

Would we again? Absolutely yes - I started to miss fort William as we drove away from it.

Defs do's: If you have the time - all of the above.

To be mindful:

Adjacent suburbs are so close, it's not necessary to stay right in Fort William (especially if you have a car that needs parking again).
There is so much to do around the area, I would suggest our stay of 2 nights as the bare minimum.
If you wish to ride the Jacobyte train you'll need to book in advance when bookings become available - set a reminder. We just missed the opportunity to board the train, but don't be too heartbroken if you do too - the drive to the viaduct, and atmosphere of watching it from the ground or viewpoint is unforgettably special too.

Onwards - From Fort William to Inverness

After two too-short days in Fort William, we were back following the winding ribbons of the Highland roads. With every curve came a "ah look" as the change in landscape sinks in, with the lochs and wild flowers pulling you in to pull over, stretch your legs, and bask in their beauty.

A Stop in Fort Augustus

Our first planned stop for the day was the charming village of Fort Augustus, nestled at the southern tip of the legendary Loch Ness. Small but full of character, the town welcomes you with the sound of water lapping gently against terraced stone walls of the Caledonian Canal. This waterway stretches coast to coast through the heart of the Highlands and is a feat of 19th-century engineering that doubles as one of the most scenic “shortcuts” in the country. The canal slices through the centre of town, and we watched and admired boats patiently climb their way through the locks. Quaint cafes, tartan shops, and locals walking their dogs along the towpath all added to the atmosphere.

We grabbed a coffee and joined the gentle foot traffic, just taking this unique spot in - where engineering meets serenity, and history is quite literally flowing past.

Loch Ness

The difference travelling the narrow highland roads this time, is we had our eyes peeled for more than merging vehicles, they were searching for magical beasts too - Nessie, of course!

There are places you visit, and there are places you feel - Loch Ness is firmly the latter.

So much larger than I even imagined - the Loch is 37km long and deep enough to swallow stacked skyscrapers!

Originally not in the schedule, we made a stop at the Loch Ness Centre - a museum nestled in the village of Drumnadrochit. This was a wonderful, immersive experience where myth meets methodical research. It's a place that doesn’t just lean into the Nessie legend - it breaks it down, unpacks it, and gives it shape.

Loch Ness isn’t just about Nessie though. It’s about atmosphere, scale, and the quiet thrill of not knowing. We didn’t meet the monster (this time), but we definitely left with wide eyes, full hearts, and a small part of us still scanning the horizon… just in case.

Inverness

Inverness was brief but charming - in an unexpected way. It’s not flashy or overly romantic like some of the postcard towns we’d passed through - it’s more grounded, a little industrial, but with just enough character to keep you looking twice. There’s a blend of old and new here: church spires and stone bridges share space with bustling supermarkets and roundabouts. We enjoyed a local meal, and strolled the flowered path alongside river Ness.

Rather than staying in the centre of Inverness, we opted for a quieter spot just outside the city - Ardersier. This gave us the opportunity to bypass the Culloden Battlefields, which demanded presence and reverence. The landscape there holds the weight of history, and it's one you stand in quietly, letting the wind and the silence tell the story. Even in that short space of time, we felt its gravity - a reminder that the Scottish Highlands are not only beautiful, but also deeply, painfully human.

Ardersier a sleepy village on the Moray Firth with water views that surprised us with their serenity. We spent the evening on a beach bench, pecking at local snacks and picking up the water-smoothed beach pebbles.

Stayed: Inchyre B&B, Ardesier (20 mins from inverness) Price: AUD205 p/n

Would we again? Inverness - Truthfully, not likely. Perhaps we didn't have long enough to love Inverness, but we don't feel we would rush back, unless it was to journey further into the Northern Isles.

Defs do's: Hold off on any take away coffees - Fort Augusts was so worth the wait and slowed-down-stop! Allocate time for Loch Ness - even better, a night if possible. There is so much to do - on, around and under the water! If not possible - the museum really was an expectation-exceeding experience for us.

Keep your eyes peeled for the beautiful animal farm on your left following the Loch Ness Museum - Hello Highland Coos! I nearly cried.

To be mindful:

Urquhart Castle is a worthy stop as you travel through Loch ness - but tickets need to bought online, prior.
Don't expect the Inverness of Outlander...

Castles & Countryside - through the Cairngorms

We hit the ribbon roads once again. We headed southeast into the heart of Speyside, before weaving our way into the majestic Cairngorms National Park.

First Stop: Ballindalloch Castle – The “Pearl of the North”

We arrived at Ballindalloch Castle as it opened, and immediately understood why it’s earned the nickname. Unlike the stark ruins scattered across the Highlands, this one is still very much alive - both lived in and loved. The gardens were in bloom, absorbing the sunshine (as we were), and the ivy-covered turrets gave it a real-life fairy tale feel.

Inside, rooms were filled with antique furniture, personal touches, and more than a few portraits watching us gush over the decor and details. The castle walks the line between grandeur and warmth - still being the family home to the Macpherson-Grant family (since 1546), it just now has its own whisky label. The castle doesn't ask for much time until you're imagining yourself as the long-lost heir to the estate...

Next: A Dram (or Three) at The GlenAllachie Distillery

Leaving royalty behind, we entered whisky country in earnest - Speyside. The Speyside area is known for its smooth, rich single malts and endless distilleries tucked into the hills like well-kept secrets. This was my husbands time to shine, and he chose to visit The GlenAllachie Distillery, one of the region’s independent gems. Tucked just outside Aberlour (worth spending time exploring), it’s a little less touristy than some of its neighbours, and all the better for it. The tour was intimate and knowledgeable, with a palpable passion for craftsmanship in every corner - from copper stills to casks aging patiently in cool, dark and unexpectedly huge warehouses.

We left with hand corked, full-size and miniature bottles, big smiles, and a renewed respect for the art of a proper dram.

Hindsight tip: If you want to explore the Speyside area - book your tours and tastings in advance! My husband started booking these 3 months prior and they were already booked out.

Finally: Through the Cairngorms, One Bend at a Time

The next leg was the meander through the Cairngorms, "meander" being the true, key word. One cannot simply drive through this stretch of Scotland. You cruise, you slow down, you pull over unexpectedly, and you lose track of how many times you say, “just look at that.” The Cairngorms National Park is a sweeping expanse of raw, rugged beauty. There’s no neat way to describe it - it just is, vast and untamed, quiet and humbling.

By the time we arrived at our bucket-list castle stay for the night, our minds and hearts were full from the day spent chasing history, flavour, and the kind of scenery that doesn’t need words - just time.

Dalmunzie Castle

We arrived at our "castle stay" in the early evening. A bucket list stay for us, Dalmunzie Castle sure did fit the brief. The Castle is tucked quietly between rolling hills, and the approach alone felt cinematic - gravel crunching under the tyres, mist skimming across the grass, and a skyline cut by turrets. Inside, the castle creaked in all the right ways. Old-world charm met Highland hospitality, and the atmosphere was equal parts cosy and grand. Our room had a palatial 4 poster bed, tall windows, vintage touches, and the kind of stillness that makes you want to write a novel.

We had a picnic on the manicured front lawn with a locally made gin cocktail (I still think about it), and it truly felt like we had slipped into another time entirely.

The dinner and breakfast menu was Scottish through and through: local venison, buttery mash, and a dram of whiskey poured over our oats.

We spent our time wandering the castle’s grounds, and took our own hikes through the surrounding fields and peaks. This was the kind of place that makes you question whether the modern world actually needs you back. Next minute your're imagining what life could be in the Scottish Highlands - Just stay. Ditch the plans. Move in. Write poetry. Learn to bake. Let the castle raise our future children and the hills teach us how to breathe slower.

Stayed: Dalmunzie Castle Price: AUD460 p/n (allow for fine dining too)

Would we again? Absolutely. Would have loved to allocate a night for Speyside too - if we had had the time.

Defs do's: All of it!

To be mindful: Allow time for this route - for pull ups, pictures and detours. Road closure and detours added an extra hour on the road for us.

Final Chapter - En route enchanting Edinburgh

Arriving in Edinburgh feels like stepping into a gothic novel - with better food. Included in our final 2 nights in Edinburgh was our first Michelin-star experience at "The Kitchin". The flavours were complex, the plating an artwork, and the service effortlessly elegant. And this was only the start of our stay.

Of course, we visited the crown jewel - Edinburgh Castle. It's impossible not to gush over; perched proudly on Castle Rock with views that command silence. We wandered its courtyards, traced our hands along the stone walls, and stood in awe as centuries of history stretched out before us - from crown jewels to military museums, from royal chambers to war memorials - even for the dogs. We took our sweet time, and enjoyed a coffee to spend longer looking over the city.

We followed the Royal Mile, which manages to feel both touristy and timeless. Victoria Street - me trusting the rumours that this inspired Diagon Alley - pierced my heart. The stacked shopfronts, colourfully painted façades, potion-themed boutiques - it's the perfect amount of whimsy to make you forget you’re in the real world.

Every corner turned in Edinburgh reveals another alley, another busker, another story - and it's magical!

We stayed opposite the Meadows which allowed for dog watching, people watching and because Scotland never stops surprising, Quidditch match watching. Yes, really. Capes, brooms, and serious athleticism. It was, quite possibly, the most wonderfully odd end to our journey.

Stayed: Airbnb Apartment (the Meadows). Price: AUD240p/n

Would we again? In every lifetime - and for longer.

Defs do's: Stop roughly half way to Edinburgh for a leg stretch in Dunkeld - coffee & snack recommendation of 'May's of Dunkeld".

Book a meal at "The Witchery"- It feels like dining in a vampire’s parlour in the best, most romantic possible way.

To be mindful: Check the conditions before hiking Arthurs seat - it's a wonderful hike, but we saw nothing but mist.

Conclusion - We’ll Be Back

Scotland didn’t just deliver on the views, castles and my own expectations. It gave us winding detours, warm people, haunted pubs, dog-friendly everything, and a storybook sense of place we’ll carry with us long after my husbands haggis cravings wear off.

Will we return? Absolutely. There are more cows to admire, more wrong turns to take, and definitely more ghost stories waiting somewhere in the heather. Scotland’s history and nature are best experienced unhurried - and a mostly-mapped road trip is the perfect way to achieve that.

Scotland was a place that left a stamp on my heart, not just my passport - and I'm already looking forward to seeing more of it.